Clunking noise from front suspension on my 2018 Q50

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Dan C. · rep 0 · May 22, 5:06 AM · 1 replies · solved · Question

Vehicle: 2018 Infiniti Q50 3.0t Luxe

Hey everyone,

I've been noticing a persistent clunking noise coming from the front end of my 2018 Infiniti Q50 3.0t Luxe. It seems to happen most often when I go over small bumps, uneven pavement, or sometimes when turning at low speeds. It's not a constant sound, but it's definitely noticeable and a bit concerning.

The car has about 75,000 miles on it. I haven't hit any major potholes recently, and the steering feels normal, no pulling or anything. I'm just worried it might be something serious with the suspension.

Has anyone else experienced this with their Q50? What could be causing this clunk? Any advice on what I should check or look for before taking it to a shop would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

✓ Accepted solution

ClearTheCode Admin

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ClearTheCode admin answer: A clunking noise from the front suspension, especially over bumps or during turns, is a common complaint and can stem from several components. It's important to address this promptly as it can affect handling and safety.

Here are the most common causes and diagnostic steps:

  1. Worn Sway Bar End Links: These are a very frequent culprit. The bushings or ball joints within the links can wear out, causing metal-on-metal contact or excessive play, leading to a clunking sound. This is often more noticeable over small, rapid bumps.
  2. Degraded Control Arm Bushings: The rubber bushings that isolate the control arms from the chassis can crack or tear over time, allowing the control arm to move excessively and produce a clunk, especially during suspension articulation.
  3. Worn Strut Mounts/Bearings: The top mounts of the struts can wear out, especially the bearing that allows the strut to rotate with steering. This can cause a clunking or popping noise, particularly when turning or going over speed bumps.
  4. Loose or Worn Ball Joints: While less common than sway bar links, worn lower or upper ball joints can also cause a clunk. These are critical for steering and suspension articulation and should be inspected carefully.
  5. Loose Caliper Bolts or Brake Components: Occasionally, a loose brake caliper or worn brake pads can mimic a suspension clunk, especially at low speeds or when braking.

When to See a Shop: You should definitely see a professional mechanic if:

  • The noise is getting worse or more frequent.
  • You notice any changes in steering feel, vehicle stability, or braking performance.
  • You're not comfortable performing a visual inspection or jounce test yourself.
  • You've identified play in a critical suspension component (like a ball joint or control arm bushing) that requires specialized tools for replacement.

Diagnostic Steps You Can Take:

  1. Replicate the Sound: Try to pinpoint exactly when the sound occurs (e.g., small bumps, large bumps, turning left/right, braking).
  2. Visual Inspection (Vehicle on Level Ground):
    • Look for obvious signs of damage, leaks (from struts), or torn rubber boots/bushings around the sway bar links, control arms, and tie rod ends.
    • Check for any loose items in the engine bay or undercarriage that might be hitting something.
  3. Jounce Test: With the car parked, push down firmly on each corner of the front fender multiple times. Listen for the clunking sound. This can help identify worn struts or strut mounts.
  4. Wheel Play Check (Vehicle Jacked Up Safely):
    • With the front wheels off the ground, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to rock it. Excessive play can indicate worn ball joints or wheel bearings.
    • Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and rock it. Play here can indicate worn tie rod ends or control arm bushings.
    • Note: This requires proper jack stands and safety precautions.

There are typically no OBD-II codes associated with purely mechanical suspension noises like a clunk. If the issue were related to ABS sensors or electronic suspension components (if equipped), then codes might appear. Addressing mechanical wear is key here.